Here’s the schedule I’ll be following for the sew-along:
Part 1: Friday, January 12th, fabric selection, cutting & fusing, preparing reinforced base and zipper
Part 2: Friday, January 19th (today), Assemble Front and Back, insert zipper and we’re all done!
Part 3: Possible wrap-up post

This schedule should allow for plenty of catch up time if you miss a week. Don’t feel pressured to rush along! But if you’re cruising along and having fun feel free to go at your own pace, too. No rules here!

In today’s video (Part 2, linked below) we assemble the front and back of the bag, insert the zipper and finish things up!

After this week you should have a completed Oxbow!

Watch the VIDEO for Part 2 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Looking for supplies for your Oxbow?

Below are supplies for the Oxbow Tote that are available in my shop.

For both the Regular and Overnight size tote:

• Oxbow Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper coming soon!)

• strap hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for top closure (18″ zipper for Regular size OR 24″ for Overnight size)

• 1.5″-wide/38mm webbing for handles, straps, etc. (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 4 for the Oxbow)

• leather zipper pulls

Project Details

The Oxbow in the sew-along video is sewn in the following fabrics:

• Leah Duncan Yuma collection (for Cloud9 Fabrics) for the exterior – I purchased mine from Hawthorne Supply Co.

• Accent fabric is Shetland Speckle Flannel in Olive (Robert Kaufman Fabrics), I purchased mine from Hawthorne Supply Co.

• Lining is Waterproof Canvas purchased from Sullivans Trim (the color I used appears to be out of stock at the moment, but there are lots of great colors to choose from!)

Thank you so much for your support! I can’t wait to see more Oxbow Totes! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #OxbowTote #noodleheadpatterns

The post Oxbow Sew Along Part 2 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Here’s the schedule I’ll be following for the sew-along:
Part 1: Friday, January 12th (today), fabric selection, cutting & fusing, preparing reinforced base and zipper
Part 2: Friday, January 19th, Assemble Front and Back, insert zipper
Part 3: Possible wrap-up if we don’t finish everything in Part 2!

This schedule should allow for plenty of catch up time if you miss a week. Don’t feel pressured to rush along! But if you’re cruising along and having fun feel free to go at your own pace, too. No rules here!

In today’s video (Part 1, linked below) I show an overview and project discussion. I also talk about fabric selection, cutting & interfacing, quilting, and then prepare the reinforced base as well as prepare the zipper.

Cutting & Labels

Cutting measurements and cutting layouts are found on pages 3-6 of the Oxbow PDF. 

• Print pages 15-20 if you are making the Regular size.

• Print pages 21-29 if you plan on making the Overnight size.

• Print page 14 if you plan to cut the rectangular pieces using your gridded mat/ruler.

After this week you should have all the pieces cut and the interfacing fused to all corresponding pieces. You will also have the reinforced base and zipper prepared.

Watch the VIDEO for Part 1 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Read a few notes about the project & supplies needed below:

I’m including some fabric and zipper notes below. I chat a bit about them in the video as well.

Fabric Options & Quilting

In the video I discuss about using a quilting cotton or lighter weight fabric for the exterior fabrics and a how to for marking and quilting your Main Panel pieces.

First, I rough cut my fabric a few inches larger than the Main Panel pattern piece. I use two layers of 80/20 batting, and then my fabric on top. I quilt the pieces and then trim them to size using the pattern piece.

It is a bit of prep work, but it’s a beautiful result if you don’t mind the extra steps.

Waxed canvas is another great option for using on the Oxbow. If you’d like to read more about that, I’ve discussed it in-depth in this blog post.

Zippers Used

Lastly, this pattern is written for traditional fixed-length zippers. In the video and the pattern I also give tips for using zipper by the yard/continuous zipper. For this type of installation (on the Oxbow), zipper lengths are fairly interchangeable whether you’re using a fixed-length or zipper tape. So if you’re in a hurry and cut your zipper tape to the fixed-length size, you should still be okay!

Looking for supplies for your Oxbow?

Below are supplies for the Oxbow Tote that are available in my shop.

For both the Regular and Overnight size tote:

• Oxbow Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper coming soon!)

• strap hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for top closure (18″ zipper for Regular size OR 24″ for Overnight size)

• 1.5″-wide/38mm webbing for handles, straps, etc. (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 4 for the Oxbow)

• leather zipper pulls

Project Details

The Oxbow in the sew-along video is sewn in the following fabrics:

• Leah Duncan Yuma collection (for Cloud9 Fabrics) for the exterior – I purchased mine from Hawthorne Supply Co.

• Accent fabric is Shetland Speckle Flannel in Olive (Robert Kaufman Fabrics), I purchased mine from Hawthorne Supply Co.

• Lining is Waterproof Canvas purchased from Sullivans Trim (the color I used appears to be out of stock at the moment, but there are lots of great colors to choose from!)

Thank you so much for your support! I can’t wait to see more Oxbow Totes! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #OxbowTote #noodleheadpatterns

The post Oxbow Tote Sew-Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

Sew-Along Schedule

Here’s the schedule I’m following for the sew-along:
Part 1: Friday, September 29th, fabric selection, cutting & fusing, preparing webbing/handles
Part 2: October 6th, Assemble Front and Back, assemble exterior
Part 3: October 13th (today), Make lining, prepare zipper & attach binding

In today’s video (Part 3, linked below) we go over assembling the lining, preparing the zipper, and attaching the binding!

That’s all after today! You should have a completed Backpack or Tote! I hope you had a fun time sewing along and I hope you love using your bag!

Watch the video for Part 3 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Looking for supplies for your Buckthorn?

Below are supplies for the Buckthorn Backpack + Tote that are available in my shop.

Backpack

• Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper versions)

• backpack hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for top closure (16″ zipper)

• 1.5″-wide/38mm webbing for handles, straps, etc. (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 4 for the Backpack)

• leather zipper pulls

Tote:

• Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper versions)

• zipper for top closure (14″ zipper)

• 1″-wide/25mm webbing for Handles (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 2)

• leather zipper pulls

The Buckthorns in the sew-along video are sewn in the following fabrics:

• Riverbend Big Sur canvas for the exterior, Riverbend Essex for the linings (both fabric collection are designed by me for Robert Kaufman Fabrics and are available in quilt shops now!)

Thank you so much for sewing along! I’ll see you next week! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #BuckthornBackpack or #BuckthornTote #noodleheadpatterns

The post Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Sew-Along Part 3 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Sew-Along Schedule

Here’s the schedule I’m following for the sew-along:
Part 1: Friday, September 29th, fabric selection, cutting & fusing, preparing webbing/handles
Part 2: October 6th (today), Assemble Front and Back, assemble exterior
Part 3: October 13th, Make lining, prepare zipper & attach binding

In today’s video (Part 2, linked below) we go over assembling the exterior of both the Backpack and tote.

I mention (and link!) in the video about the additional video for extra tips and tricks setting the base if you’re using waxed canvas for your Buckthorn. You can find that video here!

In Part 3 next week, the final part of the sew-along, we will assemble the lining and then install the zipper! After this week, the lining will be a breeze to sew through! We’re getting close!

If you have a certain question, please let me know, and I’ll do my best to discuss it in next week’s video! Just leave a comment below.

Watch the video for Part 2 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Looking for supplies for your Buckthorn?

Below are supplies for the Buckthorn Backpack + Tote that are available in my shop.

Backpack

• Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper versions)

• backpack hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for top closure (16″ zipper)

• 1.5″-wide/38mm webbing for handles, straps, etc. (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 4 for the Backpack)

• leather zipper pulls

Tote:

• Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper versions)

• zipper for top closure (14″ zipper)

• 1″-wide/25mm webbing for Handles (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 2)

• leather zipper pulls

The Buckthorns in the sew-along video are sewn in the following fabrics:

• Riverbend Big Sur canvas for the exterior, Riverbend Essex for the linings (both fabric collection are designed by me for Robert Kaufman Fabrics and are available in quilt shops now!)

Thank you so much for sewing along! I’ll see you next week! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #BuckthornBackpack or #BuckthornTote #noodleheadpatterns

The post Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Sew-Along – Part 2 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Here’s the schedule I’ll be following for the sew-along:
Part 1: Friday, September 29th (today), fabric selection, cutting & fusing, preparing webbing/handles
Part 2: October 6th, Assemble Front and Back, assemble exterior
Part 3: October 13th, Make lining, prepare zipper & attach binding

This schedule should allow for plenty of catch up time if you miss a week. Don’t feel pressured to rush along! But if you’re cruising along and having fun feel free to go at your own pace, too. No rules here!

In today’s video (Part 1, linked below) I show an overview and project discussion. I also talk about fabric selection, cutting & interfacing, and then prepare the webbing for each project.

Cutting & Labels

Cutting measurements and cutting layouts are found on pages xxx of the Buckthorn PDF and pages 3-8 of the Buckthorn printed booklet. The majority of the pieces are rectangular pieces. They are to be cut using a rotary cutter, grid ruler, and cutting mat for best accuracy. This pattern doesn’t have a lot of pieces to mix up, but if you prefer, feel free to label your pieces to help keep you organized!

***I’m including a free basic label sheet you can download here!

After this week you should have all the pieces cut and the interfacing fused to all corresponding pieces. You will also have the webbing prepared.

Watch the VIDEO for Part 1 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Read a few notes about the project & supplies needed below:

I’m including some fabric and zipper notes below. I chat a bit about them in the video as well.

Fabric Notes

In the video I talk briefly about using a quilting cotton or lighter weight fabric for the exterior fabrics. Here’s a link to the post discussing how I made a quilted Buckthorn Backpack.

First I rough cut my fabric a few inches larger that the piece sizes indicated in the pattern. I layer a plain/inexpensive cotton canvas, then a low-loft cotton batting, and then my fabric on top. I quilt the pieces and then trim them to size using the measurements in the pattern.

It is a bit of prep work, but it’s a beautiful result if you don’t mind the extra steps.

Waxed canvas is another great option for using on the Buckthorn. If you’d like to read more about that, I’ve discussed it in-depth in this blog post.

Zippers Used

Lastly, this pattern is written for traditional fixed-length zippers . In the video I also give tips for using zipper by the yard/continuous zipper. For this type of installation (on the Buckthorn), zipper lengths are fairly interchangeable whether you’re using a fixed-length or zipper tape. So if you’re in a hurry and cut your zipper tape to the fixed-length size, you’ll still be okay!

Looking for supplies for your Buckthorn?

Below are supplies for the Buckthorn Backpack + Tote that are available in my shop.

Backpack

• Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper versions)

• backpack hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for top closure (16″ zipper)

• 1.5″-wide/38mm webbing for handles, straps, etc. (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 4 for the Backpack)

• leather zipper pulls

Tote:

• Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Pattern (available in PDF and paper versions)

• zipper for top closure (14″ zipper)

• 1″-wide/25mm webbing for Handles (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 2)

• leather zipper pulls

Project Details

The Buckthorns in the sew-along video are sewn in the following fabrics:

• Riverbend Big Sur canvas for the exterior, Riverbend Essex for the linings (both fabric collection are designed by me for Robert Kaufman Fabrics and are available in quilt shops now!)

Thank you so much for your support! I can’t wait to see more Buckthorn Backpacks + Totes! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #BuckthornBackpack or #BuckthornTote #noodleheadpatterns

The post Buckthorn Backpack + Tote Sew-Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

Here’s the schedule I’ll be following for the sew-along:
Part 1: February 20th, fabric selection, cutting & fusing, sewing the exterior back and inserting the interior zip pocket
Part 2: February 27th (today), making Front Panel, hardware closures, and assembling the bag
Part 3: March 7th, Black and linen Haralson sample

In today’s video (Part 2, linked below) I cover the remaining steps of the pattern including installation of the different hardware options.

After reading through your pattern, you’ll notice that there are already two videos included! Yep, see?!, one of the many benefits of reading through the pattern!

Those videos are both found on page 10 (of the PDF) in dark gray boxes, click the link (where it says “click here”) when you’ve got the file open in Acrobat and it’ll open the video. Be sure you have any pop-up blockers disabled.

The videos will come in handy if you’re sewing up another Haralson and just need help brushing up on those specific steps. So feel free to reference back to those as needed! The same steps are covered in the full sew-along video as well.

After this week you’ll have a completed Haralson Bag! I hope you enjoy watching it!

There may not be much to cover next week, but if you have a certain question please let me know and I’ll try to discuss it! Just leave a comment below.

Watch the video for Part 2 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Looking for supplies for your Haralson?

Below are supplies for the Haralson Belt Bag pattern that are available in my shop: 

• ¾” hardware and leather for front closure

• turn lock OR Loxx fastener (if you’d like to use the alternate closure options)

• crossbody strap hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for back exterior pocket (8″ zipper)

• zipper for interior zippered pocket (6″ zipper)

• chicago screws for the front (leather/hardware) closure. OR use rivets!

• 1″-wide/25mm webbing for strap (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 2)

• leather zipper pulls

Thank you so much for sewing along! I can’t wait to see Haralson bags! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #HaralsonBag or #HaralsonBeltBag #noodleheadpatterns

The post Haralson Bag Sew-along Part 2 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Here’s the schedule I’ll be following for the sew-along:
Part 1: February 20th (today), fabric selection, cutting & fusing, sewing the exterior back and inserting the interior zip pocket
Part 2: February 27th, making Front Panel, hardware closures, and assembling the bag
Part 3: March 7th, Black and linen Haralson sample

See? I told you it’s a pretty quick project! I think this schedule should allow for plenty of catch up time if you miss a week. Don’t feel pressured to rush along! But if you’re cruising along and having fun feel free to go at your own pace, too. No rules here!

In today’s video (Part 1, linked below) I do an overview and project discussion. I also talk about fabric selection, cutting & interfacing, and then assemble the exterior back and complete the interior zip pocket.

Cutting measurements and cutting layouts are found on pages 3-5 of the Haralson PDF. Templates for the majority of the pieces are found on pages 14-18 of the PDF. There are a few rectangular pieces that will need to be cut. They are to be cut using a rotary cutter, grid ruler, and cutting mat for best accuracy. Don’t forget to use the label sheet (included are both metric and imperial measurements) to help keep you organized!

After this week you should have all the pieces cut and the interfacing fused to all corresponding pieces, the exterior back assembled, and the interior zip pocket completed . Yay!

Watch the video for Part 1 of the sew-along!

Click the image above to watch the video. Or click this link to play the video.

Read a few notes about the project & supplies needed below:

I’m including some fabric, hardware, and zipper notes below in case you hadn’t read them in the pattern release post.

Fabric Notes

The beauty of a smaller bag like this is that it can be made using a lighter weight fabric. Check out the materials list for the pattern, you’ll see that the exterior fabric calls for a mid-weight canvas in a 6-8 oz. weight.

Many of your favorite fabric manufacturers print on a canvas within that range (Ruby Star Society, Cotton + Steel, Art Gallery Fabrics, Robert Kaufman (not Big Sur canvas for this one!), and more).

My own fabric collections (Around the Bend, Quarry Trail, etc. which are printed on Robert Kaufman’s Essex) fall on the lighter side of this range, coming in at 5.6 oz per square yard. I think that’s about the lightest fabric weight I’d recommend for this pattern!

Additionally, I would NOT recommend going any heavier than the 8 oz. weight! Unless you have bag making experience with a certain fabric and interfacing combination, I would stick to the pattern as written before making adjustments. The heavier fabric will make the corners and layers more difficult to manipulate and sew through.

Hardware Note

Please note that I give a specific size for the front closure hardware. For the swivel clasp in particular is important to make note of the length of your hardware piece. The pattern is designed for a swivel clasp that is ¾”-wide by 1 ¾” tall. The overall height is important to keep the flap secure. If you end up using a taller clasp, the flap will be looser.

Zippers Used

Lastly, this pattern is written for traditional fixed-length zippers (metal ones are my fave). I also give instructions for using zipper by the yard/continuous zipper.

Looking for supplies for your Haralson?

Below are supplies for the Haralson Belt Bag that are available in my shop: 

• ¾” hardware and leather for front closure

• turn lock OR Loxx fastener (if you’d like to use the alternate closure options)

• crossbody strap hardware kits (antique brass & nickel)

• zipper for back exterior pocket (8″ zipper)

• zipper for interior zippered pocket (6″ zipper)

• chicago screws for the front (leather/hardware) closure. OR use rivets!

• 1″-wide/25mm webbing for strap (in a variety of great colors!) available by the yard (you’ll need to purchase a quantity of 2)

• leather zipper pulls

Project Details

This Haralson sewed up really beautifully thanks to these gorgeous fabrics:

See You at Six cotton twill for Exterior fabric (purchased from Bolt Fabric), waxed twill from AL Frances Textiles for the Accent fabric, and Kitchen Window Wovens by Elizabeth Hartman (doeskin) for Lining (purchased from Hawthorne Supply co.)

Thank you so much for your support! I can’t wait to see Haralson bags! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #HaralsonBag or #HaralsonBeltBag #noodleheadpatterns

The post Haralson Sew-along Part 1 appeared first on Noodlehead.

This post contains the full list of newsletter’s that were sent out for the Yarrow Sew-Along (this sew-along was originally published via newsletter January 25th though February 10th, 2022).

I am amazed to see all kinds of beautiful Yarrows popping up, it’s been so fun to see so many great fabrics being used! I think one of the most fun parts of a small project is the ability to use up scraps from other projects! Be sure to check out the #YarrowWristlet and #YarrowPouch hashtag on Instagram for some creative inspiration!

I’m making this post is available now so that the sew-along is accessible to anyone who needs it. Even though the sew-along isn’t currently happening, you can still follow along at whatever pace you need, whenever you need it!

Links to the Sew-along

Below are the links to the newsletters that went out weekly as part of the sew-along:

• Sew-Along: Week 1

• Sew-Along: Week 2

• Sew-Along: Week 3

Supplies

• Yarrow Wristlet & Pouch pattern available in my shop

• 12″ main closure zipper (handbag zipper/1.25″-wide) for Wristlet

• 4″ interior zipper for Wristlet

• 8″ main closure zipper (handbag zipper/1.25″-wide) for Pouch

• wrist strap hardware kit (½”-wide d-ring AND ½”-wide swivel snap)

• ½”-wide x 18″ long leather for optional wrist strap (instructions include both a fabric strap or leather – so choose what suits you best!

Hope you have a wonderful weekend!

The post Yarrow Complete Sew-Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

Thank you to everyone who joined along during the sew-along (we wrapped up on July 13th, 2021). More importantly, I’m excited to do more! Let me know in the comments what pattern you would want to sew along with next

This post is available now to make the sew-along accessible to anyone who needs it. In other words, even though this sew-along isn’t currently happening, you can still follow along at whatever pace you need, whenever you need it!

Links to the Sew-along

Below are the links to the newsletters that went out weekly as part of the sew-along. All newsletters contain a step-by-step video aside from Week 4’s wrap up post.

• Sew-Along: Week 1

• Sew-Along: Week 2

• Sew-Along: Week 3

• Sew-Along: Week 4

Looking for supplies for your Firefly?

• 1″-wide cotton webbing (for the project size you’ll need one yard, for the tote size you’ll need 2 yards) or of course lengthen or shorten to your desired length!

• 1″-wide leather handles (FOR TOTE SIZE: choose the 28″ length, feel free to shorten them down to the suggested 25″ length or leave at 28″) (FOR PROJECT SIZE: choose the 18″ length for the recommended length or go longer if you want!)

• Zipper for front pocket (6″ zipper for the Project size, 7″ for the Tote size)

• Chicago screws, for anyone who doesn’t want to use rivets. Available in sets of four in Antique Brass. Instructions for how to install chicago screws are shown in Week 3’s video.

• Drawstring cord (3-yard pack) for drawstring closure (available in natural and lot of colors)

Project Details

This Summer Firefly Tote sewed up really beautifully thanks to these gorgeous fabrics:

Dry Oilskin from Oak Fabrics for Exterior, Arid Wilderness by Louise Cunningham (Cloud9 Fabrics) for the Accent, and Robert Kaufman Carolina Gingham (in denim and fog) for Lining

Thank you so much for your support! I can’t wait to see your Firefly Totes! Be sure to tag me on Instagram (@noodlehead531) and use #FireflyTote

The post Summer Firefly Tote & Sew-along appeared first on Noodlehead.

I’m excited today to share the Sandhill Sling complete sew-along with you! This sew along wrapped up last month (Mar. ’21) and it was a blast sharing videos and information that will help you complete your sling! Even some fun extras, too!

I’ve been using my Sandhill for over a year now and I’m not ready to switch over to a different style bag yet. I love being able to take what I need on walks and hikes. It’s been great to be hands free and still bring the basics!

It’s so interesting to hear from fellow sewists who’ve made their own Sandhills and what they bring with, it’s kind of fun to know what fits! Be sure to check out the #sandhillsling hashtag on Instagram for loads of amazing slings!

Fun Fact

Did you know that the Sandhill Sling was named after a local bird, the Sandhill Crane? I think the name is quite fitting with the style of bag. The long neck of the crane reminds me of the sling’s strap connector and strap in a round about sort of way. I’ve taken two trips to the International Crane Foundation with my daughter’s on their field trips. Cranes are amazing birds! If you’re ever in Wisconsin, check it out! Sandhill Cranes are a very common sighting in the Mississippi River valley where I live, and we frequently encounter them in the backwaters of our local lake. They make really cool sounds!

This post is available now to make the sew-along accessible to anyone who needs it. Even though the sew-along isn’t currently happening, you can still follow along at whatever pace you need, whenever you need it!

Links to the Sew-along

Below are the links to the newsletters that went out weekly as part of the sew-along:

• Sew-Along: Week 1

• Sew-Along: Week 2

• Sew-Along: Week 3

• Sew-Along: Week 4

• Sew-Along: Week 5

Supplies

• Sandhill Sling pattern available in my shop

• Webbing/Hardware Kit available here (available in 4 color combinations

• Zipper Kit for View A here

• Zipper for View B here

• 1.5″-wide webbing available by-the-yard available here

Hope you have a wonderful week!

The post Sandhill Sling Complete Sew-Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

I wanted to make the sew-along accessible to anyone who needs it. Even though the sew-along isn’t currently happening, you can still follow along at whatever pace you need, whenever you need it!

Below are the links to the newsletters that went out weekly as part of the sew-along:

• Sew-Along: Week 1

• Sew-Along: Week 2

• Sew-Along: Week 3

• Sew-Along: Week 4

• Link Wrap Up

In addition, next week I’ll be adding the Sandhill Sling Sew-along to the blog (we finished up the sew-along a month or so ago). If you’ve been looking for that sew-along, it’ll be ready and posted here on my blog in just a few days!

Oh and if you want to keep up-to-date on everything that’s happening, I have a newsletter that goes out somewhat sporadically to let you know of new patterns, new fabric collections, sales, etc. Click here to sign up for the mailing list.

The post Pepin Tote Complete Sew-Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

Welcome to the last day of the Handmade Style tunic sew along! Today we’re left with finishing the hem. Pretty easy, right?!

Before we get to the nitty gritty, I figured I might as well show off my finished tunic. I’m really happy with how it turned out. It’s been so hot and humid here, and when I was wearing the tunic, it felt so cool and comfy. I think this particular print kind of hides the pretty details of the tunic, but I still love it anyway. It’s different enough from my coral version that it feels like a totally different top.

I paired the tunic with some comfy leggings and the most uncomfortable heels. Actually the heels are a really nice shoe, but I’m definitely not used to wearing them. I think they look pretty at least!

The finish I chose for the hem uses single fold bias tape. I really like this type of hem finish, it feels a little more fancy, plus it could be a fun place to add a little splash of hidden color. However, you could definitely do a traditional double turn hem. The curved hem is my favorite detail, but you could straighten it or make it more gradual, too. It’s up to you.

Start by opening the single fold bias tape you made on Day 1 and fold the short end to the wrong side by 1/2″. Align that folded edge to the side seam of the right side of the tunic’s bottom raw edge.

I start by placing a pin at the beginning and start sewing and work my way around the hem until I reach the beginning, overlapping where I started and trimming any excess bias tape. You’ll be sewing along the fold closest to the raw edge of the tunic, the first fold. Use the natural give in the bias tape to conform it to the curves of the hem.

Press the seam allowance away from the tunic then refold the bias tape so it lays wrong sides together with the tunic completely on the inside of the garment. The seam you had just sewn will now be the bottom edge of the tunic. Press the bias tape in place and pin being sure to neatly tuck in the raw edges where the bias tape overlapped. Pin in place.

Sew along the inner fold of the bias tape using a slightly longer stitch length. Be careful not to stretch the hem, but to let it gradually feed through your machine.

That’s all! You’re finished! Now it’s time to try it on and start thinking of the different ways you can wear your new tunic!

Sew along notes: I’ll be spreading out the posts to be once a week, which will hopefully be a nice amount of time to get through each step as well as being easy to get caught up in case your schedule is full this summer! And of course feel free to work at your own pace, the posts will be permanent here on my blog, so reference them any time you need. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments below.

Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 1
Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 2
Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 3
Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 4

If you still need a copy of my book, you can purchase a copy of Handmade Style at your local quilt shop, Joann’s, local bookstore or Amazon. Or, check with your local library, too.

And that’s a wrap! I hope you’ve enjoyed making your tunic.

The post Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 5 appeared first on Noodlehead.

We’re almost there! Welcome back to the Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along. I’m hoping this sew along will be helpful to anyone who’s excited about sewing this tunic, I know it’s been fun for me to sew it again. So it may just have given me the itch to sew yet another with a few more modifications yet!

Today we’ll be sewing the side seams, cuffs, and waist casing/drawstring. Listing it out like that makes it sound like more than it actually is, I promise it’s not too bad! I would guess that it might take you a little over two hours time if you go along at a casual pace. Along the way I’ll mention a few more modifications and those will cut down on time as well. So it’s really up to you! Make it yours, add your own twist, infuse your style.

Start by sewing the side seams just like we did on Day 3 for the shoulder seams. Again, I’ll be using a french seam for this, so you can follow these next few steps or sew it the traditional way by sewing the seams with right sides together and finish your seams with a serger or zig zag stitch – your choice.

Place the tunic front and back pieces WRONG sides together and sew along the both side seams (which is actually the sleeve and side seam all in one) using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Then trim the seam allowance to an 1/8″. Press the seams, turn the tunic wrong side out and sew the side seams using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Press your seam towards the tunic back.

The cuffs are optional, so you may choose to leave them off. If you’re not using the cuffs you’ll need to hem the sleeve opening by pressing it to the wrong side by 1/4″ and then again by 1/4″. Sew close to the inner fold to hold the hem in place.

If you’re ready for cuffs, follow along! First match the short ends of the cuffs right sides together and sew. Press seam open.

Next, fold the cuff in half with the wrong sides facing and press. Baste the raw edges of the cuff together.

Next, with the tunic wrong side out, align the raw basted edge of the cuff with the raw edge of the sleeve opening. The seam of the cuff should align to the side seam of the tunic. Pin in place and sew. Next you can finish the seam with a serger or zig zag stitch.

Turn the tunic right side out and press the seam allowance toward the cuff. Fold the cuff in half toward the tunic, the finished fold of the cuff will be past the seam you just finished by about 1/2″.

Tack in place along the shoulder seam and underarm seam by stitching a few times back and forth with your machine, or using a tack stitch or by hand. This will help prevent the cuff from coming unfolded and hold it nicely in place. Repeat to make and attach the remaining cuff.

You could skip the waist casing and go for a simpler approach by making the drawstring and tying it around your waist when worn. You could also experiment with adding belt loops at the side seam. Another fun variation to try!

To make the waist casing start by folding the long sides of the casing to the wrong side by 1/2″, then fold both short ends to the wrong side by 1/2″. Topstitch along each short end.

Lay the casing wrong side down on top of the tunic aligned to the transferred placement markings from the pattern. I start by pinning at the one end of the casing and working my way around the tunic. It’s easiest to reach inside the tunic with one hand while doing this. If your casing needs any adjustment by the time you reach the other side of the placket, it’s easy to do. Just shorten it and redo the topstitching. The casing will be ending about 1/2″ to 1/4″ on each side of the placket. If you wanted to make the casing higher or lower on the tunic, it’s pretty easy to move it up or down to your liking. You’ll want to adjust the length of the casing accordingly.

Sew the casing in place by sewing along each folded edge all the way around the tunic being sure to backstitch at the beginning and end.

The drawstring is pretty much like making double fold bias tape, but with finished ends. Join the short end together to make one long piece then press the two short ends to the wrong side by 1/2″. Then proceed as you would for double fold bias tape and stitch the open edge closed.

Once the drawstring is complete you can feed it through the waistband casing using a safety pin. Again, it’s easier here to have one hand inside the tunic while feeding the drawstring through.

We’re down to the hem which we will finish next time! Congratulations, you’re almost done! If you’re anything like me I bet you’ve tried it on a time or two already. See you next week!

Sew along notes: I’ll be spreading out the posts to be once a week, which will hopefully be a nice amount of time to get through each step as well as being easy to get caught up in case your schedule is full this summer! And of course feel free to work at your own pace, the posts will be permanent here on my blog, so reference them any time you need. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments below.

Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 1
Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 2
Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 3

If you still need a copy of my book, you can purchase a copy of Handmade Style at your local quilt shop, Joann’s, local bookstore or Amazon. Or, check with your local library, too.

The post Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 4 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Hello! Hello! Thanks for joining along for Day 3 for the Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along. It’s been fun for me to take time to process each bit and take things slowly. Plus I hope that if you’re joining along, that taking a project and breaking it up into smaller doable sizes enables you to enjoy it more along the way.

Today we’ll be sewing the neckline binding and the placket! I’m hoping the placket doesn’t scare anyone off. But if you don’t want to try it, that’s okay, too! The placket can be skipped and the tunic should fit over your head just fine. It’s a great option and of course saves even more time and steps. I like the placket detail and think it adds nice interest, especially if you’re using a solid or more subtle print.

Start by sewing the shoulder seams, I’ll be using a french seam for this, so you can follow these next few steps or sew it the traditional way and finish your seams with a serger or zig zag stitch – your choice.

Place the tunic front and back pieces WRONG sides together, matching the notches and sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Then trim the seam allowance to an 1/8″.

Press the seam and position the tunic front and back RIGHT sides together. Sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance and then press your seam towards the tunic back.

After the shoulder seams are sewn we can attach the binding to the neckline. Because the placket will be installed (and we’ll be clipping through the neckline anyway), you can start and stop the binding at the center front of the tunic. Turn the tunic so that the pieces are wrong side out. Beginning at the center front, open the double fold bias tape and align the long edge right sides together with the raw edge of the neckline.

You can then pin the bias tape all in place along the neckline, or adjust as you go without using pins. We’ll be sewing on the first crease of the binding closest to the neckline. After the bias tape is attached and you’ve reached the center front again, trim any excess tape and press the binding up away from the tunic.

Next, turn the tunic right side out and wrap the bias tape to the right side of the tunic and pin in place so that it’s just covering the previous stitching.

Once you’ve pinned carefully, sew the binding in place (starting and stopping at the center front).

That’s it for the neckline!

Now on to the placket, don’t be scared, if you take your time and press well after each step this will go really slick. A little bit of spray starch is also helpful for getting thing nice and crisp. If you’ve never tried a placket, I’d suggest grabbing a couple of scraps and practicing using this same technique. It’s better to mess up a few times with scraps than it would be with your actual garment!

Start by finger pressing the placket lengthwise to find the center at the top of the placket. With the tunic wrong side out, place the placket piece right sides down centered on the wrong side of the tunic front. Important: the placket needs to be placed 1/2″ above the finished neckline on the center front. This is also where I’d lay the garment flat on a large surface and make sure everything is aligned properly. You’ll want to be sure the placket is centered and straight on the tunic front. Pin the placket in place.

Sew on the marked stitching lines of the placket through both the placket and tunic front. This is also a good point to quickly fuse 1″ strips of the lightweight interfacing in place. Don’t skip the interfacing if you’re working with an especially lightweight fabric. Your buttons and buttonholes will thank you later. The strips will be fused in place like this:

This part might be the scariest, but with a scarp scissors cut down the center of the placket between the stitching lines of the placket. Angle out to each corner and clip to the stitching but not through it. Trim the seam allowance within the box to a 1/4″.

Turn the tunic right side out and bring the placket piece towards the center. Press each long side of the placket to the wrong side by 1/4″. Press the seam allowance towards the placket and then press the top placket edges down by 1/2″.

Press each placket in half lengthwise, so that it just covers the stitching from attaching the placket. The finished placket pieces will measure 1″ wide. Now to stitch it in place!

First, topstitch along the inner edge of the left placket along the long edge, fold the garment out of the way as you reach the bottom.

Topstitch along the right placket, sewing both long edges and across the top of the placket. You’ll be topstitching as far as you can sew just past the rectangular placket stitching box if you can. Just bend the garment out of the way to do so. Take your time, on the placket, the topstitching is what you’ll see most when you’re finished.

So now there’s a right and left side of the placket all set to go. Place the left placket on top of the right. You can put a few pins in place to keep the placket aligned temporarily. Now carefully trim the underside of the placket piece at the bottom edge. Don’t trim any off the what was the left placket, just what’s under it. This will reduce bulk for sewing the next step. One you’re done trimming, turn the bottom of the placket under by 1″. This will enclose all the raw edges. Press well and neatly pin in place. The bottom edge of the placket should meet the bottom marking of your waistband casing.

From the top edge of the left placket, topstitch along the top edge of the placket, pivoting down the furthest left side of the placket, pivoting at the bottom and finish by making a small rectangle at the base of the placket. As you reach the bottom, make sure the top placket is completely on top and centered on the bottom placket. You can also add an ‘x’ within the sew rectangle if you feel like it!  Press again so that everything is nice and smooth.

Now onto the buttons! If you need to take a break or walk away for a bit before starting the buttons, go for it. I like taking small breaks before starting on a totally different type of step like buttonholes.

I honestly always mark my buttons by eyeballing it. I don’t really have the patience to measure and mark. However, I’d recommend making the first buttonhole 1/2″ from the finished neckline on the placket and the bottom button 2 1/2″ from the bottom edge of the placket. You can change this to suit your particular buttons or your preference. If you want to do more than 5 buttons that’s totally okay, too. Even grouping buttons in sets of two might be a fun twist. It’s really up to you.

After marking get ready to sew the buttonholes. My machine comes with a buttonhole foot. It’s really quite easy. I always sew a test buttonhole with the thread and a scrap of the fabric I’m using so I can make sure everything is going to go smoothly. I also make note of how the machine creates the hole and measure the length of the sewn hole and compare it to what I’ve got on my markings making any adjustments using the test sewn buttonhole as a guide.

There is a bit of info on page 69 on an alternate way of sewing a buttonhole if your particular machine doesn’t have the automatic function. If you’ve never sewn a buttonhole, check out your machine’s manual and give it a try. I find that by doing the test run, it really takes the pressure off of trying something new.

After that you’ll sew all the buttonholes,  open the buttonholes and then sew on the buttons. Here’s a couple great little videos by Liesl Gibson you can watch, too: sewing buttonholes, opening buttonholes.

The hard part is done! Yay! The side seams, cuffs, and waist are next week. See you then!

Sew along notes: I’ll be spreading out the posts to be once a week, which will hopefully be a nice amount of time to get through each step as well as being easy to get caught up in case your schedule is full this summer! And of course feel free to work at your own pace, the posts will be permanent here on my blog, so reference them any time you need. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments below.

Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 1
Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 2

If you still need a copy of my book, you can purchase a copy of Handmade Style at your local quilt shop, Joann’s, local bookstore or Amazon. Or, check with your local library, too.

The post Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 3 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Welcome to Day 2 of the Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along. If you missed the first day, check it out here. Now that you’ve got your fabric picked and supplies gathered, we can start tracing and cutting the pattern pieces.

I think the most important measurement for the tunic would be the bust measurement (find the size chart on page 140). You’ll want to pick your size according to that measurement as well as make note of where you fall for the waist and hip measurements. This is a loose-fitting casual top so I think even if you’re off a little bit, you’ll still be okay. Fabric selection also makes a big difference as well. A nice rayon like I used for the coral sample photographed in the book has a lot of give, so it moves and stretches along with any movement. A voile or lawn might not be quite as forgiving. I’m a size Medium for the size chart provided, so that’s the size I’ll be sewing. If you’re different sizes from bust to hips you can blend the lines accordingly to suit your size.

To get a general idea of how the length of the tunic is on your body, I’d suggest simply holding the paper pattern piece up to your body (or you can measure with a flexible tape measure too). It might seem a little silly I’ll admit, but just this quick step can help you get a better understanding of the overall length.

Trace your pattern pieces using tracing paper, being sure to write the pattern information and markings on the tracing as well. If you’d like to adjust the length, I’d suggest cutting your tracing at the line where the top and bottom parts of the tunic were divided on the pull out sheet and either slide them together for a shorter tunic or pull them further apart for a longer tunic or short dress. For lengthening, once you pull the pieces apart where you’d like them to be, tape a new pieces of paper behind the pattern pieces and draw new side seams by blending the lines together. For shortening, slide them together and tape, then draw new side seams by blending the lines together. I decided to shorten mine by just a bit. Remember to adjust both the front and back pieces by equal amounts. Trace your size according to what you selected being sure to transfer any markings.

I should mention that you might want to cut into muslin or a cheap fabric before diving into the good stuff. You’ll be able to get a good feel for the sizing and shape by simply cutting out the front and back pieces and basting them together using a 1/2″ seam allowance.  It wouldn’t take too long to do, so I’d definitely recommend it. After making any adjustments or alterations you can go confidently and cut into your chosen final fabric.

Now that the pattern pieces are all set, you can cut out the pieces. Find the cutting layouts on page 143 of the book, depending on what size and fabric width you have selected will determine which is the best way to place the pieces. I prefer to lay the pieces out on my large self-healing cutting mat and cut with a 28mm rotary cutter using some large washers I picked up at the hardware store for weights. Back when I sewed with my mom, we would lay out the pieces and pin them to the fabric, then cut with a dressmaking shears (or pinking shears). Either way works, so do what’s comfortable for you. You’ll want to make sure you mark any markings with tailor’s chalk or a water-soluble pen. For the notches, use a sharp scissors snip at a 90-degree angle into the seam allowance by 1/4-3/8″ or so. Be sure to mark the placket rectangle, I would suggest cutting out the rectangle from the pattern piece you traced and marking those lines on the wrong side of the placket piece. Also mark the casing placement line on the right side of the fabric by folding the pattern piece up and out of the way.

[Transferring the waist casing marking]

[Transferring the placket marking]

Don’t forget to cut the 2″-wide bias strips and the drawstring pieces before you put anything away! I somehow always forget to do that no matter what garment I’m making. Follow the instructions on page 62 on how to make 1/2″ wide double fold bias tape for the neckline and 1″ wide single fold bias tape for the hem. Here’s a few pictures to show you my process:

Okay, so that wraps up the pattern tracing and cutting! I usually fold each pattern piece in half with the paper pattern still on top so as not to get confused which piece is what when it comes time to start sewing. So tuck them together and set them aside. You’ll be all set for next week!

Sew along notes: I’ll be spreading out the posts to be once a week, which will hopefully be a nice amount of time to get through each step as well as being easy to get caught up in case your schedule is full this summer! And of course feel free to work at your own pace, the posts will be permanent here on my blog, so reference them any time you need. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments below.

Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 1

If you still need a copy of my book, you can purchase a copy of Handmade Style at your local quilt shop, Joann’s, local bookstore or Amazon. Or, check with your local library, too.

The post Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along – Day 2 appeared first on Noodlehead.

Welcome to the Handmade Style Tunic sew along! Today we’ll be getting things started and I’ll be mapping out the remainder of the days of the sew along. I hope this will help encourage those who are new to garment sewing to give it a try and for anyone else that it will hopefully bring you a little fire to get going on it. For those of you who might be new here, we’re planning on sewing along together to compete the Women’s Tunic that is one of the two garment patterns featured in my book, Handmade Style. I hope to add in a few more fun options and suggestions along the way and at the end you’ll have a fun and casual tunic that’ll suit your style.

Photo by Holly DeGroot

Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along Schedule:

Day 1 – that’s today! fabric selection and additional supplies
Day 2 – Tracing and cutting pieces
Day 3 – Neckline and Placket
Day 4 – Cuffs and Waist
Day 5 – Hemming and wrap- up

Today I’ll be talking a bit about fabric choices and supplies needed to complete the tunic. If you don’t have any of these suggested fabrics already in your stash, I hope you can find time to do a little shopping and have something washed and pressed and ready to go for next week. I suggest using lawn, voile, shot cotton, chambray, or rayon for this garment. Any of the fabrics listed would be a great choice. When I’m fabric shopping I try to ask myself if I saw a top made from that fabric in the store, would I buy it? If I answer yes, then I go for it, if I’m not sure, I keep looking! Keep in mind that rayon is a bit wiggly (which is part of what makes it so dreamy to wear), so if this is your first garment I might shy away from it for now.

The instructions for the tunic start on page 71. However, you’ll find the size chart for selecting your size on page 140 and the cutting layouts on page 143. You’ll want to take a quick peek at the size chart and compare that to the fabric requirements on the first column on page 71.  You might find yourself needing less than what’s suggested, but these will give you an idea of how much you need. Generally, 3 yards of any width fabric will fit most sizes.

I quick pulled together a few ideas for fabric choices that I think would be really beautiful. Don’t feel limited to these though, there are so many great shops and designs out there!

Polka Sky // Southwest Motif Rayon // Indah Ikat // Chambray Union

London Calling Lawn // Yucca Voile // Diamond Lawn // X Dot Lawn

I suggest tracing the pattern pieces onto tracing paper of some sort. I use anything from tracing paper rolls I’ve picked up on Amazon, to something more substantial like Pellon 830 tracing interfacing. The pattern pieces are essentially cut in half to fit onto the large pullout sheets at the back of the book, so by tracing the pieces you’ll be able to put them together quite easily and save the pattern sheets for future reference, different sizing options (you know, in case your friend begs you to make her one), and to keep the other pattern pieces intact.

You’ll also need (5) 1/2″ buttons for buttoning the tunic placket. You could experiment with different size and quantities of buttons as well, so feel to take creative freedom with that.

Lastly, I suggest using a lightweight interfacing such as Pellon PLF36. Something lightweight will be perfect for adding stability and durability to the placket. You’ll only need a little so maybe you have some scraps laying around? Also be sure to pick up some coordinating thread and maybe a new pack of needles if don’t have any already!

Okay, so gather your supplies and pre-wash and press your fabric, I’ll see ya next week! I’ll be spreading out the posts to be once a week, which will hopefully be a nice amount of time to get through each step as well as being easy to get caught up in case your schedule is full this summer! And of course feel free to work at your own pace, the posts will be permanent here on my blog, so reference them any time you need. If you have any questions please let me know in the comments below.

If you still need a copy of my book, you can purchase a copy of Handmade Style at your local quilt shop, Joann’s, local bookstore or Amazon. Or, check with your local library, too.

The post Handmade Style Tunic Sew Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

I’m so excited to be able to kick of the Ruby Star Wrap-Along.  For those of you who don’t know what I’m talking about, there’s a bunch of bloggers each trying out projects from the book Ruby Star Wrapping by Melody Miller and Allison Tannery.  I was so happy to get a copy of this at Sewing Summit!  As I paged through I loved the Chinese Takeout boxes project, I knew they looked like fun!

I totally has a blast picking out fabrics and using my hot glue gun (that thing doesn’t get used enough!).  It’s a quick and easy project, so if you’ve got a half hour, give it a try!

One thing about the book is that I love that the authors give you so many different options and ideas to try.  For me, I always like choosing from different suggestions, gives a project a whole different look depending on what you choose!  And of course I couldn’t stop making these little boxes, they’re addicting.  Plus now I have a nice selection of wrapping for when I need to give a last minute gift.

I wanted to try making a mini version, it would be easy enough to do, just scale down the template.  By the way, in the book they give you a link to all the templates from the book so you can easily print them.  No more fumbling around at the copy machine trying to make sure everything fits.

This week’s prize is a octopurse handbag and a $20 gift certificate to Pink Chalk Fabrics.  Just hop on over and link up your project to be entered.

Friday, Amanda of A Crafty Fox will be sharing her version of Jaimie’s Casserole Cover!

Want to purchase a copy of Ruby Star Wrapping?  Check out these shops!  This book is a great gift for that special person who loves to give gifts.  Christmas isn’t far away you know, hint hint.  

Roostbooks

Sew, Mama, Sew

Amazon

Barnes and Noble

Random House

And you can also add your project photos to the Flickr Group!

Join in the fun and follow along on your favorite blogs to see more projects from the Wrap-Along:

11.9.12 Amanda of A Crafty Fox

11.12.12 – Elizabeth of Oh, Fransson!

11.14.12 – Brooke of Pitter Putter Stitch

11.16.12 – Erin of Two More Seconds

11.19.12 – Jennifer of BettyCrockerAss

11.21.12 – Rochelle of Lucky Lucille

11.23.12 – Sukie of Sukie – don’t you know who I am?

11.26.12 – Elizabeth of Don’t Call Me Betsy

11.28.12 – Gina and crew of Bolt Neighborhood

11.30.12 – Ellen of the Long Thread

12.3.12 – Katie of Swim, Bike Quilt

12.5.12 Faith of Fresh Lemon Quilts

12.7.12 Lee of Freshly Pieced

12.10.12 Maureen of Maureen Cracknell Handmade

12.12.12 Sara of Sew Sweetness

12.14.12 Colleen of The Busy Bean

12.17.12 Amy of Diary of a Quilter

12.19.12 Monica of Happy Zombie

The post Ruby Star Wrap-Along appeared first on Noodlehead.

Here’s the schedule of events:

There are 24 projects in the book and they’ll be sewing right through it from start to finish.

The sew along starts Monday April 2nd with the first project in the book and will continue through Monday September 10th with a new project  introduced each Monday.

Each blogger will be sewing a different project and will share their finished project and inspiration with you!  How cool is that?  And there’s so many awesome projects in this book, you’ll love it.  Anyway, here’s the list:

• April 2nd :: Zig Zag Tote with Sew Fantastic

• April 9th :: The House Pouch with During Quiet Time

• April 16th :: Zakka Pincushion with Pink Penguin

• April 23rd :: Sewing Kit with Monkey Do

• April 30th :: Patchwork Pencil Case with VeryKerryBerry

• May 7th :: Itty Bitty Quilt Block Magnets with Little Bluebell

• May 14th :: Raincloud Mug Rug with Quilt Dad

• May 21st :: Zakka Block Quilt with I like Orange

• May 28th :: Stem Messenger Bag with Sew Sweetness

• June 4th :: Zip Organizer with Spotted Stone

• June 11th :: Orchard Path Tweed Pouch with Don’t Call Me Betsy

• June 18th :: Happy Couple Handwarmers with A Cuppa and a Catchup

• June 25th :: Patchwork Potholder with Sew Take a Hike

• July 2nd :: Water Bottle Holder with One Shabby Chick

• July 9th :: Elephant Bookmark with Cut to Pieces

• July 16th :: Patchwork Ribbon with {House} of A la Mode

• July 23rd :: Delightful Linen Bag with Sukie

• July 30th :: Bread Basket with Patchwork Notes

• August 6th :: Sweet Sugar Cookie Sack with BettyCrockerAss

• August 13th :: Little Pocket Pillowcase with Freshly Pieced

• August 2oth :: Sweet Memories Photo Frame with Noodlehead  (yay! that’s me)

• August 27th :: Pleated Coin Purse with Shape Moth

• September 3rd :: Happy Garland Message Board with Maureen Cracknell Handmade

• September 10th :: Nesting Boxes with From the Blue Chair

Lindsey is also hosting a giveaway on her blog today for the chance to win one of 5 copies of the Zakka Style book!

And as for the babble part of the post title, I found out the other day that I’m on Babble‘s list of the top 50 Mom Craft blogs of 2012, wow wow!  Now before I give my acceptance speech (haha) you should check out the list, lots of my great blogging friends are on there.  If I made my list though, I think it would have to include a bunch more!

The post zakka along and some babble appeared first on Noodlehead.

Hopefully I know how to do this, so if you have any questions let me know.  I can’t wait to see you made!!!  PS. If you link up I might just be able to do something special for those who enter, like a cool giveaway or something.  Thank you!

The post Simplicity Skirt Sew-along Linky Party appeared first on Noodlehead.

Finish waistband:

Sew the remaining waistband facing pieces together just like you did the other waistband pieces. This time though you’ll want to finish the bottom curved edge of the waistband.  Use a pinking shears, zig zag stitch, overlock stitch, or I even did a tiny rolled hem on my original skirt.  There really isn’t a wrong way, do what feels right for you.  


* A reader pointed out that I was using a 3/8″ seam allowance on these pieces and she’s correct.  It’s my way of adjusting for a little bit larger fit, so it’s somewhere between a size 6 and 8.  I wasn’t going to mention it, but on this pattern at least, you can make adjustment like that to the waistband and it doesn’t affect how the skirt attaches since it’s gathered.  Hopefully that makes a little bit of sense.  Okay, moving along…

Pin the waistband facing top edge to the top edge of the waistband on the skirt, making sure to align side seam of waistband with that of the waistband facing.  The facing will extend past the back of the skirt on each side, that’s normal.  Simplicity says to move the carriers (belt loops) out of the way so you can topstitch them later, but I chose to sew them into the seam.  You don’t have to, it’s just the way I wanted to make it easier.  So if you want to sew them into the seam, just sandwich them in between the waistband and waistband facing and pin them in place.  Sew.

Next we’ll understitch the waistband facing so it doesn’t end up rolling to the outside of the skirt when you’re wearing it.  Press the seam allowance up towards the facing and sew close to the seam.  

Press the waistband facing to the inside of the skirt.  Tuck in the back edges that are along the zipper so that there are no raw edges. You can finish them in by hand sewing like step 29 in the pattern, but I’m lazy and sewed them down with my machine, I just stitched along the stitch lines that were there from sewing in the zipper.

On the outside of the skirt stitch close to the waistband seam.  That’s it for the waistband unless you chose to leave the belt loops out of the way, if so you’ll topstitch them in place now. You can also sew in the hook/eye, I skipped sewing mine in, but it’s up to you!

Hemming:

Okay, so if you’re ready to finish them hem, I would suggest trying the skirt on to see if you still like the length of the skirt.  You’ll press the bottom edge to the WRONG side by 1/4″ then turn and press again and stitch close to the inner fold, just like in step 34.  You can use a pretty long stitch length if you want.

I wanted to try something new for me, so I did a blind hem on both my skirts.  It’s a little different, but a nice finish. You can follow the directions in your sewing machine’s manual, or there’s a great tutorial here.  

You’re finished!  Thanks for sewing along with me.  If you want there’s already a Simplicity Patterns flickr group for you to add your photos to.  I might also do a linky party possibly this weekend, but maybe next just so everyone has time to finish up.  How does that sound? Let me know if you’d be interested in that.

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